Regole e trasgressori. Modelli di qualità, competenze e pratiche a confronto nel settore serico del Goriziano (XVIII secolo)

During the 18th century, the Counties of Gorizia and Gradisca witnessed rapid development in the silk industry across all its processing stages. The State invested in the establishment of a large silk mill modelled after the Bolognese system, which was expected to enhance the quality of the thread produced and, consequently, the fabric. Throughout the century, as long as textile production persisted in the area, numerous efforts were made to improve fabric quality and competitiveness in international markets. Special local agencies were created, and control inspectors were appointed for every stage of production, from mulberry cultivation to textile manufacturing. However, the numerous reports and work plans, which included binding recommendations for producers and workers, also reveal conflicts between different production models and a frequent preference for quantity over quality. Public institutions, entrepreneurs, craftsmen, and workers engaged in vigorous debates over quality and regulations. These debates not only highlighted the ideal model of production but also uncovered the various tricks, strategies, and skills employed in production to achieve a product that still appeared high-quality.